Trekking Tale #246 – Belatedly

This was written last July after the “real trek”. Much has happened since then, of course, with more long overdue Trekking Tales still to come your way, even though I do not write them as regularly as I once did.

A Real Trek – to the Bee Farm

 

“Trek (v.) To make one’s way arduously” says my battered Merrill-Webster dictionary in part. I’m told I am a positive person, and I am positive that’s what our weekly hike of June 1^st was!

Our group, eleven hikers and five dogs, parked vehicles by the barriers on Stillwater Road. The usual entrance to Wells Gray Park was a bumpy 1.5 km behind us.

“Anyone need mosquito spray?” It’s rather obnoxious odour soon filled the air, our skin, clothes and hair. “Anyone bring bear spray?”

“Left it at home, but my son gave me a bear banger that I don’t know how to use.”

“I have bells,” said several, “and yes, I know they are dubbed ‘dinner bells’ so won’t wear them.”

Obviously well-prepared, off we went for our anticipated 5 km walk. Oops – somehow missed the fact that’s just one way. Good thing I didn’t know for my body was definitely not prepared for that. Almost immediately we passed a sign saying “Smith Lake Loop Trail”, although the official map beside it was not helpful since its section of trail was not marked. “Up we go,” said those who had been before. Up indeed, and up some more.

“I can always take you back,” I said to a struggling gal.

“Just need a break,” she panted, and valiantly carried on.

At the top of this seemingly endless hill, we hung a right past that “Smith Loop Lake Trail” sign, and were soon beside a pretty, tranquil lake. Molly the blonde Labrador got stuck in its muddy edge, but was easily hauled out and sported a grubby dark vest for the rest of the day.

Now on a trail that went up and down and along blessed level sections, we encountered a feature I’d never seen before. Successive smooth mini-ditches at right angles to the trail were presumably made by horse hoofs depressing soft earth, leaving the equivalent of railway ties across it. Long-stepping from the top of one to the next was definitely a challenge for this ole gal and others. On and on we went beneath towering trees, spring green growth all around brightened by flowers that are old friends. Indian Paintbrush, varying shades of red, stood tall; white four-petalled bunchberry flowers lined our path with Queen’s Cup just beginning to bloom. Violets and more added to the bush fragrance.

“I can hear Hemp Creek,” we grinned, one after another. “Must be nearly there.” Wrong. Seeing a “Bee Farm” sign for the first time, we hung a left and, perhaps two and a half hours (less for a couple of the group) after leaving the vehicles, we were rewarded by the sight of buildings. Two had been repaired by Parks and Friends of Wells Gray Park. Oh yea! Sandwiches tasted delicious at this almost creek-side location with its interesting history of two sisters and their successful honey-producing business following the fire of 1926.

About this time, discussions began about the other side of Smith Lake Loop Trail which none of us had been on. Ignoring the “rumour” of steep sections, we soon delighted in seeing a steep-sided canyon, rapids, and a small but roaring waterfall beside and below us on Hemp Creek. Once again, on and on we trudged along the undulating trail, often negotiating those “railway ties” and a few boggy sections. Comments about the re-grown, enclosing forest, scat from moose and wolves, plus flower and mushrooms distracted us from labouring legs. The dogs now just walked the trail too, rather than bounding after each other or into the bush. A couple of junctions sported a familiar sign, but the biggest challenge for me came when we estimated our wheels were still about an hour away.

Although we’d had plenty of ups and downs throughout, we knew we were way above those comfy seats. A picturesque, narrow trail wound us down – and down further still. We were tiring and joints complained. Not us – just our joints! “To think you asked me three times if I wanted to go back,” chuckled my new pal. “Imagine if I had missed all this…”

No ATVs came along to “save us” in the final section, but with those now-familiar “railway ties”, their passage would be slow and bone-bending. So, we all made it without any help. Oh Yea indeed! Soon we were airing our bragging rights over coffee and cake at Sharon MacKay’s second Bear’s Den Cookhouse by the entrance to Wells Gray Golf Course and RV Park.

The following day I could still walk – tempted onwards from Sunshine Valley by the thought of a buttery pancake soaking up maple syrup at the Elks Saturday breakfast.

 

I will try to send the next one before too long.

P.S. My memoir, Gentle Journey, is once again available on iTunes, if you have Apple technology. Who knows why it showed up there, but could not be purchased. (I suspect if you receive this blog, you already have a heavy book called Gentle Journey!)

Read Full Post »

Enjoying the Company of Regular Visitors

New company is good but so is “old” company!

A Summery Day with Company from the Coast

For many families like ours, taking company to the waterfalls of Wells Gray Park is The Law. But when the visitors have come often and are hikers, adjustments are called for. “Where are you taking us this time?” asked Mary from West Vancouver and Monique from North Vancouver. A hot weekend was forecast, so shaded, relatively easy trails were essential for Sunday, June 7th. No worries: Wells Gray Park has the answer to everything.

A black bear crossed the road in front of us near the Moul Falls trail-head, but that was not our destination. Kilometres later, the mosquitoes and a forested floor covering of flowering bunch berries were our welcoming committee as we started along the Helmcken Falls Rim Trail. Murtle River rumbled unseen below us, but we saw it after 10 -15 minutes along the trail, possibly at its peak flow; it was our constant companion until we watched it drop out of sight over the falls about an hour of hiking later. The river was sometimes blue and peaceful, but had plenty of stretches of foaming white water. Last year, Roland Neave, author of Exploring Wells Gray Park, had shown us the possible campsite of Lee, discoverer of Helmcken Falls, about half way along. “It’s worth the hike!” a couple of young Aussies assured us just past that site, now returning. When the noise increased, water leaping or dropping, and a second sign warned of unfenced dangerous drop-offs, we knew we had covered most of our 4 km hike in.

“I’d forgotten how close we are to the actual top of the falls on this side,” I said. We could see the enclosed viewpoint across the gaping canyon and knew what those people were seeing. However, one brilliant rainbow and its “shadow” were ours alone. Pure white water plummeted downwards out of sight into the carved out cave below. We crept along, hanging onto trees at the edge. The only way to see the foot of the falls is to lie down and inch carefully forwards and peer over the unprotected edge.

Through the branches and beyond the bright colours of the rainbow, we saw spray forming rivulets, like mini-waterfalls, which bounced down the cliff’s rocky face opposite us. From the safety of our lunch stop I studied the columns and layers of lava and the angular patterns they formed. Tumbling water and drumming vibrations provided mesmerizing music as we ate. Before we started back, a young man, his camera on a tripod, used Monique’s camera to take our photo. Leaving right at noon, we walked through a short sunny section and realized how fortunate we were to be in the shade of towering trees throughout our return hike. When we saw pretty coral root blooming pink and white on its single stem beside the trail, we knew the car wasn’t far off.

But we were not done yet. Dawson Falls also has a less used, equally well-shaded trail and viewpoint. We ate the rest of our lunch looking at that wide curve of water sending spray high into the air, droplets sparkling in the early afternoon sunshine.

As we walked, we shared experiences of other hikes: Mary and Monique had recently been putting their boots to good use along the Dalmatian Coast in the countries of Montenegro and Croatia. “But,” said Monique, “No hike ever matches the display of flowers we saw when we completed the 7-day Hut to Hut adventure here in Wells Gray Park [in 2009 with Tay Briggs as our glorious leader].” How else could we wind up such a day except gathering for dinner with more of our companions from that incomparable event?

 

Good enough for another trekking tale even:

Same Old Stuff – But Always Different!

Has anyone else round here noticed how sparse the sites are for roasting hot dogs over an open fire – legally? Since our Lower Mainland buddies consider this an essential event for each visit, a place must always be found. This June, with riverside options awash and, conversely, dry underbrush and fire restrictions, we selected a shady camp at North Thompson Provincial Park. My husband John’s tiny fire lasted the distance as we finished up in true Girl Guide fashion with S’mores (roasted marshmallows and chocolate squares squished together between graham crackers). Yes, of course all wanted Some More! Below us, the North Thompson River, coloured brown on the opposite bank, flowed clear and green below us because fast-flowing Clearwater River had just joined it.

Clearwater River Trail had seen our hiking boots earlier that morning. One of the many joys of that path (although frustrating when I first tried to follow it) is its multiple branches and possibilities. As my buddies passed Second Eddy, I explained that in late May, Clearwater friend Barbara and I had walked over the rocks to seek delicate Calypso Orchids there. Not only would those flowers would be long gone, but also dangerous currents now separated us from the island on this June day. Eventually we looped around to hike past Dutch Lake. Those troublesome, invasive flag irises looked so pretty with their bright yellow blossoms. Water lilies were blooming in eye-catching patches of white, pink and dark pink along the edge of the lake and at Dutch Lake Resort. “We wish we had our RV here,” some touring Aussies told us. “We would stay and stay.” No turtles or loons showed themselves, an unusual omission. A week earlier, our usual Friday morning hiking group had seen two loons floating and a third nesting at the edge of the tiny island at the lake’s north end.

When Mary and I met that group at the junction of Road 1 and Camp 2 Road on Friday, June 12^th, we suggested a recently-cleared trail. We had noticed this trail a couple of days earlier, starting near the new bridge across Wylie Creek, which allows access to Road 12 once again. This flexible gang is always ready to explore, and not afraid of crashing through a bit of brush when the occasion calls for it. Off the six of us strode, discussing possible destinations and noting familiar landmarks not quite hidden by the trees, until we ended up beside some hefty, weathered, well-known (to us) sawdust piles. With Molly the dog leading the expedition (sort of!), we then bushwhacked, avoided stepping on a slithering garter snake, found well-hidden “No Trespassing” signs, and eventually arrived back at Road 1. The loop ended as we hiked down it beside a different portion of Wylie Creek, Molly dashing in for a cooling dip.

Since no visit is complete without a Pancake Breakfast at the Elks’ Hall, a day later, us girls earned ours by walking over there. After supporting various booths at the ever-interesting Farmers’ Market, we (in theory at least) walked it off, by using different lanes and trails to return to Sunshine Valley.

Their time with us was drawing to a close. I’d found plenty of new places to show our energetic visitors from Vancouver area, although they certainly don’t complain if we go somewhere familiar. After all, no matter how often we go “there”, something is always different…

Don’t forget to call ahead though when you are pointed our way!

Read Full Post »

Easy Hikes (Even for a Gimp) Around Clearwater and Wells Gray Park

Many of these places mentioned will be unfamiliar to non-locals which tempted me to leave it off the blog – but here goes, anyway. I have to remember to put local stuff in the paper as often as possible, since it is just a weekly, small community newspaper.

 

Lots Out There to Enchant Even a Gimpy Hiker

 

Once upon a time I was a real hiker, swinging along with a loaded backpack for overnight or week-long camps. Nowadays it’s a day pack, water bottle, mosquito dope and hiking poles. With bionic hip and “arthroscopically-not-quite-mended” knee, I am now an aging gimp! Some days making it up or down our six steps is even a challenge. And let’s not mention the too-small zipper-off hiking pants…

But I am still out there appreciating the trails around Clearwater and in Wells Gray Park that are easy enough for me to hike, and always different to match the time of year, the weather, and company sharing the adventure. On our long-standing regular Friday morning hikes, a small group of us sallies forth after assessing each one’s time constraints, stamina, and capabilities. Occasionally, like Molly the dog, we admit to getting older, but laugh that thought away immediately.

When we could finally stow our snowshoes in the spring, our group re-visited favourite trails close to town, around the airstrip, Road 1, and many nearby lanes inviting us to loop the loop. We got misplaced less often if I didn’t lead. Nearby Gates Creek trail took two mornings and we used two vehicles to shorten the hiking distance, though not the time it took, on the “back” section. Coral root orchids, blooming in pink and white beside the trail, did not seem to miss the leaves or chlorophyll which these tall, slim fungi lack.

On another Friday we parked near Third Canyon Bridge and hiked on an old road not far below the present paved road, to Second Canyon. The old bridge has deteriorated, even in the five or so years since I last saw it. The creek was just a trickle that we could have stepped over, but didn’t. We must visit again soon to see what changes happened as a result of the blockage of the culvert beneath the newest highway a few weeks later. A drive partway up Candle Creek Road took us to the power line on a particularly bright, blue-sky day. Red Indian Paintbrush, yellow, blue and white flowers lined our route, and the crop of delicious wild strawberries had us stopping for refreshments often.

It wasn’t until the beginning of July, that the trail up to the Trophy Mountain Meadows was almost snow free, and by then the glacier lilies in the lower section were already starting to fade. However, at the Shepherd’s Hut we were surrounded by a host of those golden flowers. When driving back down, the people in our car saw a mama grouse with one chick; near the former prison, a sleek black bear crossed the road in front of us.

Being the gadding person that I am, I missed many Friday hikes like recent ones to Placid Lake and the loop joining Spahats Falls and the Clearwater River Valley overlook. North Thompson Provincial Park, the gravel road that takes in the confluence of North Thompson and Clearwater rivers, walking the Clearwater River Road section by section, with loops down to the Kettle, parts of Clearwater River Trail and more keep us entertained and active all year long. In summer months, hikes may start earlier when they are longer, more challenging, or higher; winter has us dusting off those snow shoes once more. Doggie companions don’t care what time of year it is as long as they are with us.

Hiking anyone? Meet the group at 9 a.m. every Friday morning at the Information Centre. Got a new place to take us? Let’s go!

Read Full Post »